Wings in Motion: Making the Orange Butterfly Square | Garden Medley CAL
We’re onto one of my absolute favorites this week, the Orange Butterfly 1 square. There’s something really satisfying about watching those wings take shape row by row. The mix of rust and black on that deep green background gives it a bold, almost vintage feel, like a little piece of nature framed in crochet.
If you’re just joining in, make sure you’ve read the main CAL post here for information on materials, color choices, and the full release schedule.
About This Square
You’ll need to make two of this motif for your blanket. The butterfly design adds a lovely sense of movement to the overall layout, and having two means you’ll get plenty of practice balancing those clean color sections.
The color contrast between the rust wings and deep green background keeps things striking without being too busy, and once you’ve finished both, you’ll really start to see the blanket’s theme come together.
Get the Full Pattern
If you’d rather work ahead, you can grab the complete Garden Medley Blanket pattern now as a printable PDF. It includes all 12 charts, full written instructions, joining and border tutorials, and a coloring page to plan your palette.
👉 Click here to get the full pattern
And if you love this look, take a peek at the Bloom and Buzz Bundle, it includes two matching cushions that go perfectly with this blanket.
Materials & Notes
You’ll need the following materials to complete your Orange Butterfly 1 square:
Hook: 5 mm (or size needed to meet gauge)
Yarn: Amigo XL from Hobbii (Worsted weight, 100% Acrylic)
B – Black: 78 yards / 72 m
D – Rust: 52 yards / 48 m
E – Hunter Green: 157 yards / 144 m
Extras: scissors, yarn needle, stitch markers, yarn bobbins, and a bobbin holder
Video Tutorials
If this is your first time doing colorwork or you’d like a refresher, these videos will help you get started:
- How To Read A Chart
- How To Do Intarsia Colorwork
- Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial
- How To Work With Multiple Bobbins
- 5 Tips For Crocheting A Graphgan
- 5 More Tips For Crocheting Graphgans
- How To Weave In Ends On A Colorwork Project
Tip of the Week
This is the week where things can start to look a little chaotic behind the scenes, literally. Managing multiple bobbins can make or break your colorwork experience, so a bit of setup goes a long way.
I used to spend so much time stopping mid-row just to untangle my yarn, but switching to circular bobbins completely fixed that problem. I pair them with a bobbin holder so everything stays in place and the yarn feeds smoothly as I work.
It might sound like a small upgrade, but it’s made a massive difference.
If you want to see exactly how I set everything up, take a look at my video on Avoiding Yarn Tangles in Colorwork. It walks through my full process, from winding bobbins to positioning them on the holder, so you can crochet in peace without the chaos.
Introduction
This pattern can be worked either by following the written instructions or the color chart.
Reading The Chart
The first row of the pattern is worked in FSC. For every following row, work a SC into every stitch. At the end of every row, ch 1 (not counted as a stitch) and turn. The ch 1 at the end of each row is not shown on the chart. The chart is worked flat. Read odd-numbered rows from right to left, and even-numbered rows from left to right. Each square equals one SC (or FSC for the first row).
Right and Wrong Sides
This pattern is worked back and forth in rows of single crochet. Both sides look nearly identical, but the RS and WS labels are used to keep the chart orientation consistent. The chart is read from the bottom right corner upward.
- Right-handed crocheters: Odd-numbered rows are the Right Side (RS)
- Left-handed crocheters: Even-numbered rows are the Right Side (RS)
This keeps everyone’s chart orientation consistent so the finished design faces the correct direction, no matter which hand you crochet with.
Color Changes
- To change colors, work last st with the current color until 2 loops remain on the hook, yarn over with the new color, and pull through.
- Use bobbins to add new yarn, do not carry the yarn that is not in use under stitches.
- When using the same color twice in a row, add multiple bobbins of color as necessary.
Chart
Written Pattern
B – Black
D – Rust
E – Hunter Green
Row 1: (E) 39 FSC, ch 1, turn.
Rows 2-4: (E) 39 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: (E) 20 SC, (B) 5 SC, (E) 14 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 6: (E) 12 SC, (B) 9 SC, (E) 18 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 7: (E) 17 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 11 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 8: (E) 11 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 4 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 11 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 9: (E) 10 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 3 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 5 SC, (E) 10 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 10: (E) 10 SC, (B) 6 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 2 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 10 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 11: (E) 10 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 1 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 7 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 2 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 10 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 12: (E) 10 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 3 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 7 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 1 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 9 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 13: (E) 9 SC, (B) 6 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 10 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 14: (E) 10 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 7 SC, (B) 5 SC, (E) 9 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 15: (E) 9 SC, (B) 5 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 10 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 16: (E) 10 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 9 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 17: (E) 9 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 10 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 18: (E) 11 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 8 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 19: (E) 8 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 12 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 20: (E) 12 SC, (B) 19 SC, (E) 8 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 21: (E) 8 SC, (B) 20 SC, (E) 11 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 22: (E) 10 SC, (B) 21 SC, (E) 8 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 23: (E) 8 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 3 SC, (B) 5 SC, (D) 8 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 9 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 24: (E) 8 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 8 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 8 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 25: (E) 8 SC, (B) 5 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 8 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 8 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 26: (E) 7 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 6 SC, (E) 8 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 27: (E) 7 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 2 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 7 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 28: (E) 7 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 7 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 3 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 6 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 29: (E) 6 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 4 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 7 SC, (B) 3 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 7 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 30: (E) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 7 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 4 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 6 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 31: (E) 7 SC, (B) 3 SC, (E) 5 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 6 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 32: (E) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 3 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 6 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 6 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 1 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 7 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 33: (E) 7 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 1 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 7 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 3 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 6 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 34: (E) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 2 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 5 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 7 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 1 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 7 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 35: (E) 7 SC, (B) 1 SC, (E) 11 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 2 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 6 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 36: (E) 6 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 1 SC, (B) 2 SC, (D) 4 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 11 SC, (B) 2 SC, (E) 7 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 37: (E) 21 SC, (B) 4 SC, (D) 3 SC, (B) 5 SC, (E) 6 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 38: (E) 6 SC, (B) 11 SC, (E) 22 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 39: (E) 23 SC, (B) 9 SC, (E) 7 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 40: (E) 7 SC, (B) 8 SC, (E) 24 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 41: (E) 26 SC, (B) 4 SC, (E) 9 SC, ch 1, turn.
Rows 42-44: (E) 39 SC, ch 1, turn.
Row 45: (E) 39 SC.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Share Your Square
That’s it for the Orange Butterfly 1 square! This one’s a real standout in the Garden Medley Blanket, with its bold contrasting wings. Once you’ve finished, give it a gentle block to bring out those clean lines and even tension.
Don’t forget to tag your progress photos with #GardenMedleyCAL so I can see your work and share it with the community.
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